Silk Manufacturing: ochie nakwa n'oge a

Esemokwu banyere mgbe silk mmepụta usoro e malitere, anọgide na-a ụbọchị. Otú ọ dị, e gwupụtara n'ala na China ka, n'ezie, nwere ike kwụsị okwu a - anụ ahụ rifọrọ, chọpụtara na 1958 na Shandong Province, n'ebe ọwụwa anyanwụ China, bụ nke kasị ochie extant silk ngwongwo. Ugbu a silk na-akpọ "King of anụ ahụ" ma mee ka ọ na a dịgasị iche iche nke umu, na kasị oké ọnụ ahịa na ọnụ - a eke ihe, na-nwere njikọ chiri na akụkọ ihe mere eme na ọdịbendị nke Celestial Alaeze Ukwu.

Legend nke eze ukwu nwunye

Silk mmepụta ke China nwere ihe karịrị 6000 afọ. The akụkọ ihe mere eme nke a dị ebube nke ákwà kpuchie akụkọ na-emeghị. Dị ka otu n'ime ha, ndị nwunye nke Yellow Emperor Huang Di nọ ọdụ n'okpuru a mulberry osisi na-aṅụ tii mgbe ya cup ala ọcha na obi ụtọ - akwuru. The nwaanyị hụrụ n'anya ka na-atụgharị uche dị iche iche phenomena na hụrụ a obi ụtọ nke N'ụbọchị nke abụọ, na-acha ọcha na eri na-egosi siri ike. Ifufe na eri na mkpịsị aka ukwu, onye eze ukwu na nwunye ghọtara na ndị dị otú ahụ emep uta eri nwere ike iji ike a na-akpa ákwà. Dị ka ọ malitere na-eto eto silkworms iwu kpọmkwem.

Mgbe e mesịrị, China echepụta site oge ochie ekwe, mgbe nke na mmepụta nke silk oge ochie China na oge nke Shang Dynasty na XVI na narị afọ BC. e. Ọ ruru ọkwa kachasị elu.

N'okpuru ihe mgbu nke ọnwụ: nzuzo nke mmepụta nke Chinese na-akpa ákwà

Chinese nwe ya art nọ na nzuzo n'ihi na ihe karịrị otu puku afọ. Ihe nzuzo nke silk mmepụta ke ụwa ochie a na-eji nnọọ nditịm - na akụkọ ihe mere eme nke mmadụ, na ọ bụ otu n'ime ndị kasị na-echebe "azụmahịa nzuzo." The ban na mbupụ nke silkworm larvae, cocoons, mulberry osisi mere na ọnwụ bụ ntaramahụhụ.

Ọ bụ ezie na ụbọchị ndị anyị nwere ikike na-eji ejiji na silk gowns naanị eze ukwu na ịmata omenala nke sericulture na filature ngwa ngwa gbasaa China, na ákwà zụtara site nnọchiteanya nke n'etiti òtù na ndị ogbenye.

Ákwà ọma na uwe ndị a maara maka magburu onwe ya mma na ọrụ ọma. Ma ọ dịghị adighi, ọ dịghị ikpe ahụ nwere ike ịkwụsị na tupu nke silk mba ndị ọzọ.

The Great Silk Road

Silk ngwaahịa aghọwo akụkụ dị mkpa nke mba ọzọ ahia nke Chinese Alaeze Ukwu. Bara uru ákwà e me ka Europe site Silk Road. Ngwongwo ebu site na ugwu na desat, kamel, inyinya mule, na abụghị ihe mgbochi ike kwụsị kpamkpam kwajuru ìgwè ndị njem - bara uru ibu kwere nkwa a bukwanu uru.

The Great Silk Road gabiga Asia na Europe, na-ejikọ ndị ndụ na lifestyles nke dị iche iche iche iche. Ọ malitere na Yellow River Valley, agafe n'ebe ọdịda anyanwụ nke Great Wall nke China na Issyk-Kul Lake. Ọzọ, ụzọ ndụdụ na n'ebe ugwu na n'ebe ndịda: ndịda n'okporo ụzọ dugara Ferghana, Samarkand, Iraq, Iran, Syria na Oké Osimiri Mediterenian, na ugwu diverged abụọ ngalaba - onye gara Central Asia, na nke abụọ na ala esịmde nke Syr Darya River na West Kazakhstan na, skirting n'ebe ugwu-n'ebe ọwụwa anyanwụ nke Oké osimiri Ojii na Europe. Ngụkọta ogologo nke Great Silk Road bụ karịa na 7000 kilomita.

Ebe ọ bụ na silk mmepụta pụtara na Korea, mgbe ahụ na Japan, India, na, n'ikpeazụ, na mba Europe na Alaeze Ukwu Rom. Ruo ọtụtụ narị afọ, ndị Silk Road bụ ezigbo echiche nke zuru ụwa ọnụ ahia ke edinam. Trade ụzọ gasị nke Silk Road kere ọtụtụ puku afọ. "Otu belt, otu ụzọ" - echiche bụ oge a na ugbu a: na XXI narị afọ revives China si amụma iji revitalize na Silk Road na investments na okporo ụzọ, elu-ọsọ okporo ígwè na ọdụ ụgbọ mmiri, nke ana achi achi arụmọrụ nke mmepụta bases na wider mpaghara mpaghara.

Na Silk Road pụrụ ịchọta ndị kasị ibu n'ụwa silk ngosi nka na Hangzhou. Ọ nwere ọtụtụ ihe pụrụ iche ngwaahịa na iberibe oge ochie usoro ndị eze na webs dị iche iche afọ.

Atụmatụ silk mmepụta

Ọ bụ ezie na mmepụta nke silk oge ochie China e nditịm nkewa, dị ka akụkọ mgbe, ndị Roman mọnk jisiri ike smogul silkworm cocoons na isi obodo nke Alaeze Ukwu Byzantium, Constantinople. Ọ ka ebe haziri na Imperial Obí cocoonery (ụlọ maka ozuzu larvae nke silkworm) ma guzosie ike winders. Ngwaahịa ndị fabulous price - na nke a bụ n'ihi na mgbagwoju na multi-ogbo usoro nke na-amị filaments na mgbe okokụre ákwà.

Ozuzu nke silkworms na silk mmepụta-achọ a otutu anya, nke ịrụsi ọrụ ike na-akpachara anya nlekota oru.

Isi nkebi nke mmepụta

Ọ bụrụ na anyị na-akọwa na mmepụta nke silk mkpụmkpụ, ga-enwe ndị na-esonụ usoro. Butterfly silkworm n'oge ndụ ha na ha, nke dịruru si 4 6 ụbọchị, dina banyere 500 àkwá. Larvae nri mulberry epupụta, ha nwere a nnukwu agụụ, ha ibu enwekwu ngwa ngwa. Ịka katapila larvae gburugburu onwe ha na a umi nke na-emepụta site ha pụrụ iche glands. Ná mmalite bụ abụọ mkpa silky, solidifying na ikuku. N'oge na-adịghị gburugburu tracks kpụrụ oké filament netwọk. Ewuru a eku nke akwuru, katapila na-akpali n'ime ya center na-eji nwayọọ nwayọọ na-etolite a akwuru - ọcha N'ụbọchị nke abụọ obi ụtọ.

Mgbe 8-9 ụbọchị, erùrù-eri na cocoons tinye na mmiri ọkụ na-enweta a Strand. Ha ogologo pụrụ ịbụ 400 na 1000 mita na a ọkpụrụkpụ nke 10-12 microns. Ọtụtụ kpara akpa nke na-adị silkworm - ya raw. Ọzọ, n'ihi yarn converted n'ime ákwà. The mgbagwoju inweta anụ ahụ dị mkpa: a nwanyi gown ewe ihe 630 cocoons.

The n'ihu mmepe nke Chinese technology

Ihe yarn nwere na-emerụ na a spool. Shelkokrutilnye mbụ mepụtakwara na wheel ọbụna n'oge Ming Dynasty. Na XVIII narị afọ na Jiangsu nwe-emepụta na ígwè ọrụ, nke na wheel-chụpụrụ ala, si otú amụba arụpụtaghị.

Mgbe ahụ igwe n'ihi na imewe nke multi-acha ákwà krupnouzornoy e kere, nke bụ n'ihu mmepe nke technology. Chinese silk azu bụ ihe ndị ọzọ kwara European - akpa igwe, tkavshy silk mpe mpe akwa, pụtara na Germany nanị na nke XVI narị afọ. Ina silk akwa toro ma n'ime China na gburugburu ụwa. -Adịrị mma silk mmepụta ígwè ọrụ - akụkọ ihe mere eme nke a na-akpa ákwà e ji ekpuchi na rụzuru nke akwa engineering.

Filature ákwà: ochie nakwa n'oge a

Mgbe oge nke ụlọ ọrụ mmepụta ihe nke XIX narị afọ, e nwere a na-adakpọ na European silk ụlọ ọrụ. The abụọ "silk alaeze" mgbe China ghọrọ Japan. Cheap Japanese silk, karịsịa ekele mmeghe nke Suez Canal, bụ otu n'ime ọtụtụ ihe belata mkpokọta na-eri nke ya. Ke adianade do, ntoputa nke eri ndị abịa na-achịkwa ke imewe nke ngwaahịa ndị dị otú ahụ dị ka sọks na parachutes.

Agha ụwa abụọ na etre ọkọnọ nke ngwaọrụ si Japan na European silk ụlọ ọrụ bụ na a akwụsị. Ma ná mmalite 50-ies nke XX narị afọ na Japan, silk mmepụta e weghachiri, mma àgwà nke akụrụngwa. Japan, na China nọgidere onye nke ụwa si eduga emepụta nke raw silk, na ihe fọrọ nanị isi ekspootu na 1970.

China na-eji nwayọọ nwayọọ rethought ya ọnọdụ dị ka ụwa ndú na mmepụta nke silk na ekspootu raw yarn, na-egosi na akụkọ ihe mere eme nke silk ndị ya ụkpụrụ boomerang. Today na-arụpụta banyere 125 puku tọn silk na ụwa. Fọrọ nke nta abụọ n'ụzọ atọ nke mmepụta na-anapụta China. Ndị ọzọ isi na-emepụta - India, Japan, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Uzbekistan na Brazil. The United States bụ ndị kasị ibu mbubata nke silk na ngwaahịa.

Njirimara nke eke ákwà

Isiokwu mere nke eke silk kwesịrị onwunwu na juu, na agba - edo. Best ebe ịzụta silk na China - na Suzhou, Hangzhou na Shanghai n'ụwa nile enterprising ntá ego ndokwa silk tours ka mba a.

Ịzụ ngwaahịa mere nke eke silk, a ga-atụle:

• silk ngwaahịa achọ n'aka-asa;
• stains na silk ngwaahịa mkpa ngwa ngwa adịkwaghị n'ime mmiri oyi na a nwayọọ omo;
• mgbe saa ga-ọma rinsing na nwayọọ ihicha ngwaahịa;
• ígwè uwe e silk kwesịrị na a ala okpomọkụ (ọ na-akara pụrụ iche na ebuka);
• nụchara anụcha ngwaahịa ma ọ bụ na-enwe a na agba na-ebipụta bụ mma inye akọrọ cleaners;
• Nọgidenụ na ngwaahịa na nke kacha mma ikpe (bụghị plastic) n'ebe kpọmkwem ìhè anyanwụ.

Nnabata na ndị a dị mfe Atụmatụ ga-enyere na-adịgide adịgide chebe egbuke egbuke fancy wardrobe ihe na ihe nyere site na okike.

Rayon: atụmatụ na esemokwu

Ná ngwụsị nke XIX narị afọ, mbụ pụtara wuru silk, ya rụpụta e gbanwee si cellulose eriri. . The ákwà na-akpọ viscose.

Ru na sịntetik ụdị silk akwa nwere a pụrụ iche luster, ha ezigbo na inogide. Olee otú ịmata eke si wuru anụ ahụ? Ọtụtụ mgbe ahịa pụrụ ịzụta a adịgboroja na a elu price.

Ebe a bụ ụfọdụ Atụmatụ na ihe anya n'ihi na mgbe ị na-ahọrọ a ákwà:

• eke ihe nro na aka na-ekpo ọkụ, n'adịghị wuru, oyi ma na-erughị soft;
• eke ákwà obere rumpled, crumpled wuru ike;
• eke anụ ahụ jiri nwayọọ na-enwu na shimmer, wuru - nwere a nkọ luster;
• ragged ọgwụgwụ nke wuru filament ka a ahịhịa na efu na emep uta eri, na eke na - na ngugu nke onye Obere-emep uta eri;
• mmiri filament rayon etịbede n'ụzọ dị mfe karịa akọrọ;
• usoro nke-ere ọkụ filament nwere ike ọ bụghị mgbe niile tinye, ma ọ bụ ihe kasị pụrụ ịdabere: Natural eri na-sintered n'ime ok ikpaohia, anaghị adịte aka na-esi isi nke-ere ọkụ ntutu na keakamere Burns ruo ọgwụgwụ, na-eme ndị isi nke ọkụ synthetics;
• Ru web anaghị ada ada, n'adịghị eke;
• rayon nta agwụ na anyanwụ, na eke anụ ahụ karịrị oge, ida agba na-agwụ.

Silk a pụrụ ịkpọ a pụrụ iche ngwaahịa na-abịa anyị site n'oge ochie, na-enweghị adịkwa mma na mkpa. Fashion ụlọ gburugburu ụwa - Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino na ndị ọzọ ike a collection dabeere na eke silk, atọ ụtọ ọkaibe connoisseurs nke ezi ịma mma ọhụrụ emenye àgwà nke ihe onwunwe - onyinye nke ọdịdị mmadụ-ukwu.